Greenwashing v módním průmyslu se zaměřením na společnost H&M
Název práce v češtině: | Greenwashing v módním průmyslu se zaměřením na společnost H&M |
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Název v anglickém jazyce: | Greenwashing in fashion indrustry with special focus on H&M |
Klíčová slova: | greenwashing, green marketing, módní průmysl, udržitelnost, H&M, společenská odpovědnost firem, dotazníkový experiment |
Klíčová slova anglicky: | greenwashing, green marketing, fashion industry, sustainability, H&M, corporate social responsibility, survey experiment |
Akademický rok vypsání: | 2015/2016 |
Typ práce: | bakalářská práce |
Jazyk práce: | čeština |
Ústav: | Katedra marketingové komunikace a public relations (23-KMKPR) |
Vedoucí / školitel: | Mgr. Ing. Marek Vranka |
Řešitel: | skrytý - zadáno vedoucím/školitelem |
Datum přihlášení: | 24.06.2016 |
Datum zadání: | 24.06.2016 |
Datum a čas obhajoby: | 13.06.2018 08:00 |
Datum odevzdání elektronické podoby: | 11.05.2018 |
Datum proběhlé obhajoby: | 13.06.2018 |
Oponenti: | doc. PhDr. Denisa Hejlová, Ph.D. |
Kontrola URKUND: |
Seznam odborné literatury |
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GLOBAL 2000, FRIENDS OF THE EARTH EUROPE, FRIENDS OF THE EARTH ENGLAND WALES AND NORTHERN IRELAND. Less Is More: Resource efficiency through waste collection, recycling and reuse of aluminium, cotton and lithium in Europe. 2013. Dostupné také z: http://www.foeeurope.org/sites/default/files/news/foee_report_-_less_is_more.pdf HAACK, P., D. SCHOENEBORN a CH. WICKERT. Talking the Talk, Moral Entrapment, Creeping Commitment? Exploring Narrative Dynamics in Corporate Responsibility Standardization. Organization Studies. 2012, 33(5-6), 815-845. HAANES, K., M. REEVES, I. VON STRENGVELKEN, M. AUDRETSCH, D. KIRON a N. KURSCHWITZ. Sustainability nears a tipping point. MIT Sloan Management Review. 2012, 53(2), 69-74. HALADA, J. Marketingová komunikace a public relations: Výklad pojmů a teorie oboru. 1. Praha: Karolinum, 2015. ISBN 978-80-246-3124-0. HEJLOVÁ, D. Public relations. 1. Praha: Grada, 2015. ISBN 978-80-247-9876-9. HOBSON, J. To die for? The health and safety of fast fashion. Occupational Medicine. 2013, 63(5), 317-319. Dostupné také z: https://academic.oup.com/occmed/article/63/5/317/1451439 CHANG, CH. Feeling Ambivalent About Going Green. Journal of Advertising. 2013, 40(4), 19–32. CHERNEV, A. a S. BLAIR. Doing Well by Doing Good: The Benevolent Halo of Corporate Social Responsibility. Journal of Consumer Research. 2015, 41(6), 1412–1425. CHOI, T.-M. a T. C. E. CHENG. Sustainable Fashion Supply Chain Management. 1. Springer International Publishing, 2015. ISBN 978-3-319-12702-6. CHRISTOPHER, M., R. LOWSON a H. PECK. Creating Agile Supply Chains in the Fashion Industry. International Journal of Retail & Distribution Management. 2004, 32(8), 367-376. JOY, A., J. F. SHERRY, A. VENKATESH, J. WANG a R. CHAN. Fast fashion, sustainability and the ethical appeal of luxury brands. Fashion Theory. 2014, 16(3), 273-296. KALLIALA, E. M. a P. NOUSIAINEN. Life Cycle Assessment: Environmental Profile Of Cotton And Polyester-Cotton Fabrics. AUTEX Research Journal. 1999, 1(1), 8-20. Dostupné také z: http://www.autexrj.com/cms/zalaczone_pliki/2b.pdf KAŠPAROVÁ, K. a V. KUNZ. Moderní přístupy ke společenské odpovědnosti firem a CSR reportování. 1. Praha: Grada, 2013. ISBN 978-80-247-8558-5. KOLB, R. W. Encyclopedia of Business Ethics and Society, Svazek 1. 1. Thousand Oaks (California): SAGE Publications, 2008. ISBN 978-1-4129-1652-3. KOTLER, P. a K. L. KELLER. Marketing management. 14. Praha: Grada Publishing, 2013. ISBN 978-80-247-4150-5. KOTLER, P. Reinventing Marketing to Manage the Environmental Imperative. Journal of Marketing [online]. 2011, 75(4), 132-135 [cit. 2018-03-28]. ISSN 1547-7185. Dostupné také z: http://www.dyane.net/linked/2.1.%20Reinventing%20Marketing%20to%20Manage%20the%20Environmental%20Imperative.pdf KU, H.-H., CH.-CH. KUO, CH.-L. WU a CH.-Y. WU. Communicating Green Marketing Appeals Effectively. Journal of Advertising [online]. 2012, 41(4), 41-50 [cit. 2018-03-28]. Dostupné také z: https://doi.org/10.1080/00913367.2012.10672456 KUNZ, V. Společenská odpovědnost firem. Praha: Grada, 2012. ISBN 978-80-247-7703-0. LANTZ, J. The Trendmakers: Behind the Scenes of the Global Fashion Industry. 1. Bloomsbury Academic, 2016. ISBN 978-1474259781. LAUFER, W. S. Social accountability and corporate greenwashing. Journal of Business Ethics. 2003, 43, 253-261. LI, L., M. FREY a K. J. BROWNING. Biodegradability Study on Cotton and Polyester Fabrics. Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics. 2010, 5(4), 42–53. Dostupné také z: https://www.jeffjournal.org/papers/Volume5/5-4-6Frey.pdf LIPOVETSKY, G. Říše pomíjivosti: Móda a její úděl v moderních společnostech. 2. Praha: Prostor, 2010. ISBN 978-80-7260-229-2. LOCKETT, A., J. MOON a W. VISSER. Corporate Social Responsibility in Management Research: Focus, Nature, Salience and Sources on Influence. Journal of Management Studies. 2006, 43(1), 113. Dostupné také z: https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1467-6486.2006.00585.x LUCHS, M. G., R. W. NAYLOR a J. R. IRWIN. The Sustainability Liability: Potential Negative Effects of Ethicality on Product Preference. Journal of Marketing. 2010, 74(5), 18-31. ISSN 0022-2429. LUO, X. a C. BHATTACHARYA. Corporate Social Responsibility, Customer Satisfaction, and Market Value. Journal of Marketing. 2006, 70(4), 1-18. LYON, T. P. a MAXWELL J. W. Greenwash: Corporate environmental disclosure under threat of audit. Journal of Economics and Management Strategy. 2011, 20, 3-41. MARQUIS, C. a TOFFEL. When Do Firms Greenwash? Corporate Visibility, Civil Society Scrutiny, and Environmental Disclosure. Harvard Business School, 2012. In BOWEN, F. After Greenwashing: Symbolic Corporate Environmentalism and Society. 1. Cambridge (UK): Cambridge University Press, 2015. ISBN 978-1-107-42173-8. MERRIAM-WEBSTER INCORPORATED. Merrian-Webster's Collegiate Dictionary. Springfield, MA, 2011. In BOWEN, F. After Greenwashing: Symbolic Corporate Environmentalism and Society. 1. Cambridge (UK): Cambridge University Press, 2015. ISBN 978-1-107-42173-8. MORLEY, N., S. SLATER, S. RUSSELL, M. TIPPER a G. D. WARD. Recycling of Low Grade Clothing Waste. Oakdene Hollins, Salvation Army Trading Company, Nonwovens Innovation a Research Institute, 2006. Defra Contract Reference: WRT152. Dostupné také z: http://www.inno-therm.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/Recycle-Low-Grade-Clothing.pdf PATWARY, S. M. Antimony diffusion from polyester textiles upon exhaust dyeing. Borås, 2017. Dostupné také z: https://hb.diva-portal.org/smash/get/diva2:1147152/FULLTEXT01.pdf. Magisterská práce. The Swedish School of Textiles - University of Borås. POLONSKY, M. a R. GARMA. Are carbon offsets potentially the new "greenwash?". In ANZMAC 2008 : Australian and New Zealand Marketing Academy Conference 2008 : Marketing : Shifting the Focus from Mainstream to Offbeat Canning Bridge, W.A., 2008. Dostupné také z: https://dro.deakin.edu.au/eserv/DU:30018171/polonsky-arecarbonoffsets-2008.pdf POLONSKY, M.J., CARLSON L., GROVE S. a KANGUN N. International environmental marketing claims: Real changes or simple posturing?. International Marketing Review. 1997, 14, 218-232. ROOS, J. M. Konsumtionsrapporten 2010. Göteborg: School of Business, Economics and Law, University of Gothenburg: Centre for Consumer Service, 2010. Dostupné také z: https://gupea.ub.gu.se/bitstream/2077/24550/1/gupea_2077_24550_1.pdf In EKSTRÖM, K. M. Waste Management and Sustainable Consumption: Reflection on Consumer Waste. 1. Abingdon (Oxfordshire): Routledge, 2015. ISBN 978-1-13879726-0. SEN, S., C. B. BHATTACHARYA a D. KORSCHUN. The Role of Corporate Social Responsibility in Strengthening Multiple Stakeholder Relationships: A Field Experiment. Journal of the Academy of Marketing Science. 2006, 34(2), 158–166. SILLANPÄÄ, M. a P. SAINIO. Release of polyester and cotton fibers from textiles in machine washings. Environmental Science and Pollution Research. Springer International Publishing, 2017, 24(23), 19313–19321. ISSN 1614-7499. SIMPSON, J. Millennial Angst Leads a Host of Buzzwords. Journal of Commerce. 2000, 2(2), 12. Dostupné také z: https://www.joc.com/millennial-angst-leads-host-buzzwords_20000102.html STEVENSON, A., ed. Oxford English Dictionary. Oxford Universty Press, 2012. In BOWEN, F. After Greenwashing: Symbolic Corporate Environmentalism and Society. 1. Cambridge (UK): Cambridge University Press, 2015. ISBN 978-1-107-42173-8. TerraChoice 2007. The 'Six Sins of Greenwashing': A Study of Environmental Claims in North American Consumer Markets. Northbrook, IL: Underwrites Laboratories. In BOWEN, F. After Greenwashing: Symbolic Corporate Environmentalism and Society. 1. Cambridge (UK): Cambridge University Press, 2015. ISBN 978-1-107-42173-8. THAM, M. Slow and Fast Fashion. BLACK, S. The Sustainable Fashion Handbook. 1. London: Thames & Hudson, 2012. ISBN 978-0-500-29056-9. TRAN, K. T. L. Slow Ride. Women's Wear Daily. 2008, 195(74), 18S. WALKER, K. a WAN F. The harm of symbolic actions and greenwashing: Corporate actions and communications on environmental performance and their financial implications. Journal of Business Ethics. 2012, 109, 227-242. ZAHARIA, C. a D. SUTEU. Textile Organic Dyes – Characteristics, Polluting Effects and Separation/Elimination Procedures from Industrial Effluents – A Critical Overview. Iasi: InTech, 2012. ISBN 978-953-307-917-2. Dostupné také z: http://cdn.intechopen.com/pdfs/29369.pdf |
Předběžná náplň práce |
Tato bakalářská práce se zabývá tématem greenwashingu, jeho výskytem v módním průmyslu a zaměřuje se na příklad jedné z největších světových oděvních společností - H&M. Teoretická část nejprve popisuje koncept korporátní odpovědnosti, který představuje rámec veškerých ekologických iniciativ každé společnosti, rozebírá jeho environmentální oblast a seznamuje s pojmy udržitelnost a green marketing. V následující kapitole se věnuje samotnému pojmu greenwashing, jeho definicím a historii vzniku. Následuje kapitola o samotném módním průmyslu, která přibližuje hnací mechanismy, které zapříčinily prudké zrychlení jeho produkce v uplynulých desetiletích, snaží se popsat jeho vliv na životní prostředí a rozebírá vybrané snahy o udržitelnost, které fast fashion značky často uplatňují v rámci svého environmentálního CSR. Závěrečná kapitola teoretické části se zabývá společností H&M, popisuje její historii a následně rozebírá její zelenou politiku a analyzuje vybrané environmentální aktivity, které mohou být považovány za příklad greenwashingu. Praktická část práce prostřednictvím kvantitativního výzkumu ve formě dotazníkového experimentu zkoumá vnímání značky H&M spotřebiteli konfrontovanými s pozitivními či negativními informacemi o jejích ekologických aktivitách. |
Předběžná náplň práce v anglickém jazyce |
This bachelor thesis deals with the subject of greenwashing, its presence in fashion industry and it focuses on an example of one of the world's leading fashion companies - H&M. The theoretical part describes the concept of corporate social responsibility which represents a framework of all ecological initiatives of every company, it analyses its environmental aspects and explicates terms of sustainability and green marketing. The following chapter deals with the concept of greenwashing, its definitions, origins and history. The subsequent chapter describes the system of the fashion industry, its driving mechanisms that caused rapid acceleration of the textile production over recent decades, it tries to depict its impact on the environment and analyses selected sustainable efforts that are commonly made by fast fashion brands in the field of environmental CSR. The last chapter of the theoretical part deals with H&M and its history, it describes its green policy and analyses selected environmental activities that could be considered as an example of greenwashing. The practical part examines the perception of the brand H&M by confrontation of the consumers with positive or negative information about its green activities. This quantitative research was realized in the form of survey experiment. |